A Weekend Guide to Dijon, France

Dijon, the historic capital of Burgundy, is a city that seamlessly blends medieval charm with modern-day vibrancy. Sure, you might have heard of it because of the mustard. (But yes, the mustard here is the best in the world.)

From local markets brimming with seasonal produce to Michelin-starred restaurants, Dijon is a paradise for food lovers. Most people think of Lyon for this, but don’t sleep on Dijon. (It’s also far less crowded!)

But it’s not just about the food. (Even though the food is sublime.) Stroll through the well-preserved medieval streets, and you’ll be transported back in time to an era when Dijon was one of France’s most important cities. Its rich history is reflected in grand architecture, ranging from the imposing Palais des Ducs to the quaint half-timbered houses that line cobbled streets. Art enthusiasts will revel in the city’s museums, while nature lovers can unwind in its beautifully landscaped parks and gardens.

Easily accessible from Paris by train, Dijon offers a perfect weekend escape, whether you’re indulging in fine wines, exploring centuries-old monuments, or simply soaking up the unique atmosphere of this quintessential French city.

Where to Go

Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin: A must-visit for any foodie, the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin celebrates Dijon’s legacy as a center of French culinary excellence. There’s truly no other museum quite like this one. (Not to mention the food hall village out back—more on that later.)

The site is a vast complex featuring interactive exhibits on Burgundy’s wine and gastronomic heritage, cooking classes, wine tastings, and gourmet shops. It’s a wonderful place to sample the region’s rich food culture and bring home artisanal products.

Palais des Ducs et des États de Bourgogne: This grand palace, once home to the Dukes of Burgundy, now houses the city’s town hall and the Musée des Beaux-Arts. The complex offers stunning architecture, with its medieval towers and classical facades, along with breathtaking views over the city from the Tour Philippe le Bon.

Hôtel Aubriot: This 13th-century mansion, located in the heart of the old city, is a prime example of medieval Burgundian architecture. Though currently housing administrative offices, Hôtel Aubriot’s exterior is worth a visit for its intricately designed façade and historical significance.

Musée des Beaux-Arts de Dijon: Located within the Palais des Ducs, this museum is one of the oldest in France and boasts an impressive collection of European paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts. Works range from the Middle Ages to the 20th century, including masterpieces by Titian and Monet.

Musée Archéologique de Dijon: Housed in the former Abbey of Saint-Bénigne, this museum takes visitors through the archaeological history of Burgundy, with artifacts dating back to prehistory. The Roman and Gallo-Roman relics are particularly fascinating, and the museum’s cloister adds a peaceful atmosphere to the historical experience.

Jardin Darcy: A beautifully landscaped park at the entrance to Dijon’s historic center, Jardin Darcy offers a serene place to relax amid fountains, statues, and tree-lined paths. The park’s most famous feature is its adorable (and even a bit contemporary-style) polar bear statue by sculptor François Pompon, which has become a symbol of Dijon. It’s a lovely spot to unwind after a day of sightseeing.

Jardin Botanique de l'Arquebuse: Located near the train station, this botanical garden offers a peaceful escape with over 4,000 plant species on display. In addition to the gardens, there’s a natural history museum and a planetarium, making it an educational and enjoyable stop for visitors interested in botany or ecology.

Grand Théâtre de l'Opéra de Dijon: Built in the 19th century, the Grand Théâtre de Dijon is an architectural gem that hosts a range of opera, ballet, and classical music performances. Even if you’re not attending a show, a visit to admire the theater’s ornate interior and grand staircase is well worth the time.

Where to Eat and Drink

Village Gastronomic: Simultaneously, this is both the most chic and chillest boutique food hall. (Although all of the eateries are indoors like actual boutiques. There is outdoor seating when weather permits.) Here you can find all of the specialities of Burgundy, from comté cheese to creme du cassis to lots of little treats in between as well as a very cozy bookstore with titles in French and English, all about the gastronomic and viticulture heritage of Burgundy.

La Cave de la Cité: Located within the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin, this massive wine bar and cellar offers an extensive selection of Burgundy’s finest wines. You can even help yourself to your own pours; you just set up a card with credit at the cashier and then you can walk around the room at your leisure. You can also sit outside on the patio when the weather is nice.

Monsieur Moutarde: I can confirm that all of the mustart in and around Dijon really is that good. What’s remarkable about having mustard in almost every dish is that it’s always a hint—never too much. Apparently that goes for cocktails, too. This stylish cocktail bar in the heart of Dijon serves up creative drinks in a chic setting. With a menu that draws on local ingredients and a gorgeous rooftop terrace for warm evenings, it’s an ideal spot for an aperitif or a nightcap after a day of exploring.

Le Pré Aux Clercs: A historic brasserie located in the Place de la Libération, Le Pré Aux Clercs offers classic French cuisine with a modern twist. There’s a prix fixe menu, but they can easily accommodate most dietary restrictions. (As a vegetarian, I had no issues—and the mushrooms cooked in their mustard sauce was divine.) The elegant dining room and outdoor terrace are usually bustling, so it’s good to make a reservation if you’re going for dinner. The outdoor patio is also nice for an apéro on a summer afternoon.

Trinidad: This lively spot offers a refreshing break from traditional French fare with its Caribbean-inspired menu. From flavorful jerk chicken to tropical cocktails, Trinidad is a vibrant place to enjoy something a bit different during your stay in Dijon. It’s also in the heart of the Place du Théâtre, so it’s quite a lively scene.

Where to Stay

Hôtel Vertigo: This modern hotel in the city center is much more comfortable and upscale than you might expect. Each room is stylishly appointed with modern amenities (including a Nespresso machine), and the hotel features a spa and a gym (although it doesn’t open until 8 a.m., so I went running outside). That said, it’s walking distance from all the sights—including the train station. And the hotel breakfast is basic but satisfying; there were even crepes at the buffet.

Grand Hôtel La Cloche: This is THE luxury hotel in Dijon, and it’s right next door to the Hôtel Vertigo, so you have all of the same location benefits. With opulent rooms, a fine-dining restaurant, and a beautiful courtyard, this five-star hotel provides an indulgent stay for those looking for the top accommodations in town.