A Weekend Guide to Saugatuck, Michigan
For those of us who indulge in Hallmark Channel movies (either at the holidays or even year-round), one of the questions that viewers often find themselves asking is, “Are these places ever real?” The real answer is, of course, no. But that doesn’t mean you can’t seek out the fantasy just a little bit—at least as far as the setting is concerned.
If you’re seeking some small town charm with a dash of bucolic frolicking this summer, then look no farther than Saugatuck, Michigan. Historically an artist-driven community for nearly a century now, Saugatuck is touted by locals as a major stop along Michigan’s “Art Coast,” a string of beguiling towns, artist retreats, wineries and fruit farms that still feel a bit off the beaten path—but maybe not for long.
Saugatuck, especially, is raising the bar for small town tourism with its elevated dining and drinks scene as well as a bevy of independent jewelry and fashion boutiques—not to mention all of the contemporary art galleries showcasing and selling the work of not only some of the top artists and craftspeople in the region but also nationwide.
And then there are the vibes. If you’re looking for an alternative to Cape Cod or Nantucket but one that is decidedly even more relaxed with less people, Saugatuck would fit the bill. And you’ll be surprised just how relaxed. You could walk into what seems like an average restaurant, but when the food comes, your head will likely spin from how phenomenal the cuisine is. And a good deal of that momentum stems from the pandemic and has continued to grow.
“People were flocking to these small towns, and they were coming here, and Saugatuck has always had a wonderful place to be because it offers art, beauty, food and wine,” Martin Horner, co-owner of the new Wickwood Inn in Saugatuck. “You're seeing people from cities who expect certain things and services, including this food and culture. Everything’s getting elevated, and I think that’s part of why people are coming. It has been thriving.”
Saugatuck has also long been home to a large queer community, with more than 100 businesses owned by members of the LGBTQ+ community. (And you won’t have to look hard either: there are just as many rainbow flags hanging from storefronts as there are American flags, and to put that into perspective, nearly all of them have American flags.) The town also prides itself on having a full calendar of queer-friendly events not just in June for Pride Month, but all year round, making it a thriving destination for queer visitors from around the country.
And compared to a lot of small towns and resort locales, Saugatuck itself is relatively easy for visitors to reach, either by car or plane from many major cities around the U.S., especially those in the Midwest and East Coast. The closest airport is Grand Rapids International Airport, and from there it’s less than a 45-minute drive to Saugatuck. With an on-time departure, it’s arguably faster (or at the very least, less stressful) to travel to the Hamptons or Martha’s Vineyard.
What to Do
137 Center Street, Douglas, MI 49406
Ox-Bow House extends the legacy of the local and nationally renowned Ox-Bow School of Art, a 112-year-old institution dedicated to fostering artistic expression. The artists in residence, who range from being in their teens to their golden years, actually live and work at a retreat a few miles away in order to maintain their privacy, but anyone can come visit the gallery in town, either during the posted opening hours or by appointment. And this particular gallery isn't just about static displays, also offering a diverse program of events and workshops throughout the year, including artist talks, lectures and hands-on workshops that delve deeper about various artistic mediums. And nearly everything in the gallery is for sale, from handmade jewelry to small and large canvas paintings to original, and sometimes irreverent ceramics, such as a life-size pair of ceramic Crocs clogs.
161 Blue Star Highway, Douglas, MI 49406
This isn’t your typical art gallery. And it’s not even just an art gallery but also a wine shop with hundreds of bottles, with SKUs that owner and gallery director Julianne Petter says you won’t find at grocery stores or even most wine shops. That said, Petter says there is a bottle for everyone here—and every budget with prices ranging from $10 to $400. You can also enjoy a glass of wine from the bar while you stroll around the gallery, comprised of 24 curated rooms of canvas paintings, sculptures, handmade jewelry and glasswork, showcasing the work of more than 140 established and emerging contemporary artists from around the country. That said, it’s an exclusive process getting work shown here. Interested artists can apply online. Petter notes that while she might receive approximately 100 submissions on average daily, she’ll usually only spot one that intrigues her enough for a follow-up.
3480 Blue Star Highway, Saugatuck, MI 49453
Lulu Cadieux isn't your average specialty boutique or restaurant. Here in this beautifully restored 100-year-old former fruit market, surrounded by lush gardens and captivating sculptures, you can indulge in some retail therapy among a highly curated (and high-end) selection of culinary treats, cookbooks, novelty gifts, and home and garden accessories. But the real treat is in the massive kitchen, which feels like stepping into a country home in the south of France. Cooking classes can be hit or miss, but this is one you do not want to miss. Designed for small groups (between four and 12 people), you learn basic but classic techniques that you can actually practice at home, from learning how to make pasta (and put together ravioli) to some more advanced but impressive dishes, such as a savory cheese soufflé. Afterward you can reap the rewards of all your hard (but not really hard) work and eat your dish in the dining room that looks straight out of Alice in Wonderland or, if weather permits, alfresco in the garden, where the business also grows its own heirloom vegetables and herbs.
Clearbrook Golf Club, Saugatuck, MI 49453
Clearbook has hosted some of the top players and tournaments in golf, including the West Michigan PGA Championship. Its traditional layout with close-cut, narrow fairways and smooth, fast greens were designed to pay homage to America's original resort courses. And it offers a challenge for golfers of all skill levels, but is open to both members and the public with reservations, and golf instructor classes are also available. (And do note there is a dress code: collars and sleeves on shirts for men; women may wear sleeveless tops and dresses. Jeans and shorts are fine, but not gym shorts.) After a round around the green, enjoy brunch, lunch or dinner—supper club-style, a tradition in the Midwest—inside the Grill Room or on the terrace overlooking the course with a martini or a glass from the Michigan-centric wine list.
6495 Blue Star Highway, Saugatuck, MI 49453
An exhilarating adventure like no other, this is a rollicking ride through a very uneven landscape of sand dunes while enjoying panoramic views of the majestic Lake Michigan. a custom-built "dune schooner," a sturdy open-air vehicle specifically designed to navigate sand dunes. And it’s more than just a thrill ride; your guides and drivers can share lots of facts about the local history, flora and fauna along the way. The Saugatuck Dune Ride is suitable for all ages (including children 3 and above), making it a great activity for families and groups. But while the ride is thrilling, you can ask your driver before or during the course to take it easier to your comfort level.
730 Water Street, Saugatuck, MI 49453
If you’re visiting during the summer months, then you can’t visit Saugatuck or the neighboring towns without going out for a sail on the Kalamazoo River. And what better way to do it than in a retro speedboat, which makes it look like you’re pulling up to the Venice Film Festival rather than the Saugatuck Old Boat House. Each boat can comfortably seat four people, and can be rented for 90 minutes or three hours. The Old Boat House, which also has a dockside bar you can visit after you get back from your trip, also rents out some other fun boating options, including pontoon and donut boats.
439 Butler Street, Saugatuck, MI 49453
Group exercise classes can be intimidating for newcomers, and that goes double for yoga, which has its own dictionary of vocabulary to learn, let alone all of the poses. But Satya Yoga offers a welcoming environment to new and experienced yogis, and its core philosophy revolves around using your breath to move with purpose and stability. Classes cover Vinyasa, Yin, and Restorative Yoga, each designed to connect movement with breath and build strength from the inside out. The studio offers special occasion yoga sessions, ideal for bachelorette parties, birthday celebrations, or trips with friends. For a personalized experience, you can also book one of the highly trained instructors for private sessions in your vacation rental or at the studio after hours.
400 Culver Street, Saugatuck, MI 49453
Saugatuck’s Center for the Arts attracts live music and theatrical groups from around the world, including some of the biggest hits on Broadway when touring, at a semi-intimate scale with 400 seats. This summer, theater goers can book tickets for the Tony Award-winning Beautiful: The Carole King Musical, which will be showing June 22 through July 14.
Where to Eat and Drink
127 Hoffman Street, Saugatuck, MI 49453
The aroma of freshly roasted beans hits you the moment you walk through the door at this community hub, open since 1994. Uncommon Coffee Roasters sources its beans with a focus on ethical practices and sustainability, partnering with growers from around the world. Depending whether you prefer an Americano pour-over or an oat latte, Uncommon Coffee Roasters offers a variety of brewing methods to cater to every coffee preference. The café also offers a selection of homemade pastries, muffins and bagels while having lots of vegan and gluten-free options, too. And while it’s the perfect place to start your day or for a mid-afternoon revival (an especially good spot for reading a book or getting some work done remotely from the outdoor terrace out front), the café also comes alive at night with live music nights and poetry readings.
48 W Center Street, Douglas, MI 49406
Respite offers a selection of the finest fresh-roasted coffees from Michigan's Madcap Coffee Company. The café, which has indoor and sidewalk seating, offers a tempting selection of light bites and treats, from fresh pastries and bagels to healthy salads and sandwiches. Breakfast and lunch options include baked oatmeal with maple syrup and berries as well as the “tourist wrap” panini with eggs, bacon, avocado, cheddar cheese and tomato aioli. And when available, don’t miss the lavender latte (can be made with almond, oat or dairy milk)—a perfectly measured craft coffee beverage with just a hint of lavender without tasting excessively sweet.
Crane's Pie Pantry Restaurant and Winery
6054 124th Avenue, Fennville, MI 49408
If you’ve ever wanted to go wine tasting and pie tasting at the same time, this is the place for you. Crane’s Pie Pantry is the restaurant arm of this family-owned farm, which has been in operation for at least six generations. Here you can sample the farm’s wines, ciders, and of course, fruit pies—an all-around representation of Michigan’s “Fruit Belt.” The country casual dining room inside of the farm’s original barn—which has been fully renovated with a restaurant, kitchen and gift shop—does tend to fill up daily with groups of all sizes, so call ahead to book a table or at least gauge how long a wait it might be before you go.
100 Blue Star Highway, Douglas, MI 49406
This is the perfect pit stop to break up your day between going to the beach, wineries or art galleries. Farmhouse prioritizes using the finest seasonal ingredients sourced from local Michigan farms, and this commitment to quality shines through in every bite. And Farmhouse isn't just about sandwiches with extensive breakfast and lunch menus that include homemade salads, wraps, soups, quiches and pastries, while catering to all dietary needs, with numerous vegetarian and gluten-free options, especially.
Locals will also stop by to stock up on loaves of bread, and you’ll see tourists doing the same, bringing fresh loaves home with them—either in their cars or even in their carry-on bags on the flight home. There is also plenty of seating inside, as well as a few tables out front, so you’ll almost never need to worry about finding a place to sit down and eat. No reservations necessary.
2128 62nd Street, Fennville, MI 49408
If you’re on a time crunch and you’re only going to visit one winery in the area, make it this one. Nestled over 40 acres of rolling hills and scenic vineyards, Modales Wines is the picture perfect place to go wine tasting, from the renovated barn turned into a sleek, modern tasting room to the outdoor terrace, which is covered to protect guests from the elements when necessary. Reflecting the mostly cool climate viticulture typical of the Fennville AVA (American Viticultural Area), Modales has a bountiful wine list ranging from pinot blanc to pinot noir, with some adventurous choices such as a sparkling white pét-nat to the off-menu skin contact (orange) wines.
121 Mary Street, Saugatuck, MI 49453
Housed in a beautifully restored cottage (thus the name) more than a century old, The Cottage exudes a sense of nostalgic elegance with the modern cocktail bar mystique. The moody lighting, almost like a speakeasy, inside fosters a cozy atmosphere. And the outdoor patio in the backyard space has a decidedly romantic ambiance with string lights and comfortable sofas and chairs with fleece blankets already set out in case the temperature drops in the evening. And with plenty of seating inside and out, it’s a great choice for large groups and even private events, such as wedding rehearsal dinners. And while The Cottage specializes in cocktails, there is a full menu that changes seasonally based on what produce is available. But no matter what, the kitchen has options for all dietary restrictions.
Where to Stay
510 Butler Street, Saugatuck, MI 49453
This 86-year-old property on Michigan’s west coast is a historic gem that was recently renovated by Horner Martin Horner and Shea Soucie, co-founders of Chicago-based luxury design firm, Soucie Horner Interiors. Famous among professionals in the design industry, most people outside that world have probably never heard of them—and for good reason. As Soucie describes it, many of their projects are designed and built for the “1% of the 1%.”
“Many of you will never see or experience any of the places that we design because they don't want it to be in the press, and so that's difficult for us in order to share with the general public what we do. It's very, very behind the scenes,” Soucie explains. “Wickwood to us is being able to share this brand with the general public. People can come and feel it—and I say feel it because luxury isn't a look. It's a feel.”
That said, Wickwood is still intended for travelers with deeper pockets as this is a five-star property. Currently, the Inn has 11 rooms in the main house, which is a historical landmark and has served as the local mayor’s, a nursing home, an orphanage, and a previous hotel over the course of its history since the 19th century. (The Inn is also set to expand with the addition of another private home next door that can be rented out by families and groups.)
Many of the original, antique art pieces have been preserved, but just reorganized around the guest rooms and common areas amid new, modern touches like stainless silver sconces and marble showers in the suite bathrooms. All of the carpets are also designed by Soucie Horner. But most importantly, the hotel retains that trademark Midwest sense of hospitality. Most of the hotel’s existing employees stayed on when the new ownership took over and renovated the Wickwood to what it is now.
The kitchen is also led by Chef Rose Duong—a veteran of Chicago’s restaurant scene as well as formerly the caterer of the green room for the Oprah Winfrey Show—who absolutely delights guests throughout the day from a made-to-order, farm-to-table breakfast experience, and then slices of her mouthwatering banana bread are available all day in the library. And there is a daily happy hour with wine, cheese, and charcuterie, hosted by the hotel’s general manager.
