A Weekend Guide to Lyon
Lyon is often regarded as the gastronomic capital of the world. (It’s also home to one of my favorite soccer teams, Olympique Lyonnais Féminin.)
Nestled between the Rhône and Saône rivers, this UNESCO World Heritage city offers an enchanting mix of Renaissance architecture, winding cobblestone streets, and a cutting-edge dining scene.
Whether you're strolling through the lively markets of Croix-Rousse, visiting the stunning Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, or savoring Lyon's famed cuisine at a local bistro (the food is really that good everywhere here), there’s plenty to do here in one weekend if that’s all you got. It’s also a great place to serve as a home base to a lot of day trips further into Burgundy’s wine country.
Where to Go
Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon): Vieux Lyon is the city’s historic district and a UNESCO World Heritage site, known for its narrow cobblestone streets, Renaissance architecture, and lively atmosphere. Visitors can wander through the traboules (see the next location), hidden passageways that connect the old buildings, and visit landmarks like the Gothic Saint-Jean Cathedral. The district is also home to many bouchons, traditional Lyonnaise restaurants, where you can sample the local cuisine while soaking in the medieval charm of the area.
Lyon's Traboules: The traboules of Lyon are a series of hidden passageways, mostly found in Vieux Lyon and La Croix-Rousse, that were originally used by silk workers to transport goods while sheltered from the weather. Today, these secret corridors are a fascinating feature of the city’s architectural history, and visitors can explore many of them on self-guided or guided tours. Each traboule offers a glimpse into the past, with their unique construction and the way they connect buildings and courtyards.
Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière: Perched on Fourvière Hill, the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière is one of Lyon's most iconic landmarks. This stunning basilica, built in the late 19th century, features intricate mosaics, stained glass windows, and panoramic views of the city from its terrace. The architecture is a blend of Romanesque and Byzantine styles, making it a unique sight. Visitors can explore the interior, enjoy the breathtaking views, and even take a guided tour of the towers to learn more about Lyon’s history and the significance of this religious site.
Parc de la Tête d'Or: Parc de la Tête d'Or is Lyon’s largest urban park, offering a peaceful escape within the city. Spanning over 117 hectares, the park features a lake where visitors can rent boats, a botanical garden, a zoo, and wide walking paths lined with lush greenery. It’s a popular spot for both locals and tourists, whether you’re looking to have a picnic, enjoy outdoor activities, or simply take a leisurely stroll. The rose garden and greenhouse are particular highlights, showcasing a wide variety of plant species.
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon: The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon is one of France’s most important art museums, housed in a former 17th-century Benedictine convent. It boasts an impressive collection of art, from ancient Egyptian antiquities to modern masterpieces by artists such as Monet, Picasso, and Rodin. The museum’s peaceful garden courtyard offers a quiet retreat between exhibits, and visitors can spend hours exploring its vast galleries, which cover painting, sculpture, decorative arts, and more.
La Croix-Rousse: La Croix-Rousse is a lively and historic neighborhood perched on one of Lyon’s hills, historically known for its silk-weaving workshops. The area is filled with unique boutiques, street art, and vibrant markets, making it a favorite spot for both locals and tourists. Visitors can explore the former silk workers’ residences and traboules, as well as visit the Maison des Canuts museum to learn more about Lyon’s silk-making heritage. The views from the top of the hill offer a stunning panorama of the city.
Place Bellecour: Place Bellecour is one of the largest squares in Europe and serves as a central hub in Lyon. It is a lively spot surrounded by shops, restaurants, and cafes, with a grand statue of King Louis XIV at its center. The square frequently hosts events, markets, and festivals, making it a dynamic place to experience the local culture. It’s also a perfect starting point for exploring the Presqu'île area, known for its shopping and dining options, and for taking in the city’s vibrant energy.
Watch a Olympique Lyonnais Féminin Football/Soccer Match: Watching an Olympique Lyonnais Féminin soccer match is a must for sports enthusiasts visiting Lyon, as the team is one of the most successful in women's football. Matches are typically held at Groupama Stadium or sometimes at the smaller Stade de Gerland, both accessible via public transport from the city center. To attend, you can purchase tickets directly from the Olympique Lyonnais website or at the stadium’s ticket office. Prices vary depending on the match and seating, but generally, tickets are affordable, making it a great experience for visitors of all ages. Be sure to check the match schedule in advance and plan your transport, whether by metro, tram, or bus, for a smooth trip to the stadium.
Where to Eat and Drink
Duclef Café & Pâtisserie: Duclef is a renowned patisserie in Lyon, celebrated for its expertly crafted praline tart, a signature dessert deeply rooted in the city's culinary tradition. Praline, made from caramelized sugar and almonds or hazelnuts, holds a special place in Lyon’s pastry culture, and the praline tart at Du Clef is a standout example of this beloved local specialty. With its perfectly flaky crust and generous filling of vibrant pink pralines, the tart offers a sweet and crunchy treat that embodies the essence of Lyon’s sweet traditions. While it's a favorite among tourists, the patisserie remains a cozy spot for locals to enjoy as well, known not only for its pastries but also for its delicious sandwiches and matcha lattes, making it a versatile café for any time of day.
Puzzle Café: Puzzle Café in Lyon is a cozy, inviting café that combines delicious food and drinks with a range of board games and puzzles. It’s a great spot for individuals or groups looking to relax, socialize, or enjoy a few hours of creative fun. The café’s laid-back atmosphere and friendly staff make it a favorite for both casual coffee breaks and light meals. Centrally located, Puzzle Café is an ideal stop for those looking to unwind after exploring the city.
François Pralus: Pralus, located in the heart of Vieux Lyon, is a renowned chocolatier known for its artisanal chocolates and signature creation: the “Praluline,”a rich, buttery brioche filled with pink pralines. Founded by master chocolatier François Pralus, the shop offers a wide range of handcrafted chocolates, from single-origin bars to unique confections, all made with high-quality ingredients sourced from around the world. Visitors to the charming Vieux Lyon location can indulge in tastings and discover a variety of chocolate products, though it's recommended to visit earlier in the day to avoid the long lines that form later in the afternoon.
Contre-Champ: Jeremy Galvan is an acclaimed restaurant in the heart of Vieux Lyon, offering a creative and refined dining experience that showcases modern French cuisine. Recently remodeled in 2023, the restaurant briefly lost its Michelin star—a common occurrence after renovations—but continues to maintain the high standards that made it renowned. Led by chef Jérémy Galvan, the restaurant focuses on seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, with each dish crafted to highlight the natural flavors and textures of the produce. The intimate and minimalist setting enhances the culinary artistry, making it a must-visit destination for those seeking a unique and elevated dining experience in Lyon, even as it regains its Michelin recognition.
Bouchon Les Lyonnais: Bouchon Les Lyonnais is a traditional Lyonnais restaurant located in the heart of the city, offering an authentic taste of local cuisine. Known for its warm, rustic atmosphere, the restaurant serves classic dishes such as quenelles, andouillette, and coq au vin, all prepared with regional ingredients. The casual, cozy setting and friendly service create the perfect environment to enjoy the hearty flavors that define Lyon’s culinary heritage. Bouchon Les Lyonnais is a popular spot for both locals and visitors looking to experience the rich food traditions of the area in a welcoming, down-to-earth setting.
Au 14 Février: Au 14 Février is an intimate, Michelin-starred restaurant located in the heart of Lyon’s 5th arrondissement, known for its exquisite fusion of French and Japanese culinary techniques. The restaurant offers a refined, seasonal tasting menu crafted by Chef Tsuyoshi Arai, who artfully blends the precision of Japanese cuisine with the richness of French gastronomy. With just a few tables, the dining experience is highly personalized, providing an exclusive and elegant atmosphere. Au 14 Février is celebrated for its attention to detail, delicate flavors, and beautifully presented dishes, making it a standout destination for those seeking a unique and memorable fine dining experience in Lyon.
Daniel & Denise: Known for their dedication to quality and tradition, Daniel & Denise is a go-to for those seeking authentic Lyonnaise cuisine. Visitors can also enjoy takeout options from their épicerie (grocery boutique). It’s also centrally located in Vieux Lyon.
Halles Paul Bocuse: A true haven of French gastronomy, the Halles de Lyon first opened in the 1970s but it was renovated in the early 2000s and renamed in honor of Lyon’s most famous chef, Paul Bocuse.
More than just another urban food hall, this is the ultimate destination for the finest regional products, from fresh seafood and meats to artisanal cheeses and intricate pastries. With numerous stalls and restaurants, it’s a must-visit for food lovers looking to sample the best of Lyon’s gastronomic offerings as well a diverse cross-section of cuisines from around the world.
L’Atelier des Augustins: L'Atelier des Augustins is a contemporary restaurant located in the heart of Lyon, offering a creative tasting menu. Diners aren’t presented with a menu (beyond a wine list that is as large and as heavy as a coffee table book), but the restaurant can accommodate any dietary restrictions when notified in advance. And yes, the wine list is there, but the restaurant recommends a special champagne menu to go with each course. With a focus on French cuisine with an experimental twist, the restaurant delivers a refined dining experience in an intimate but modern setting. The restaurant is also a certified Michelin Green restaurant, meaning it sources all of its products—from vegetables to proteins—from within 200 kilometers of Lyon.
Where to Stay
Hôtel Fourvière: This boutique but sizeable luxury hotel is located on the historic Fourvière Hill in Lyon, housed in a former 19th-century convent that has been carefully transformed into an elegant, modern set of accommodations. The building’s rich heritage as a religious site is reflected in its architecture, with preserved features such as cloisters and stained-glass windows, offering a tranquil and atmospheric setting. Overlooking the city, the hotel is ideally situated near major landmarks, just a five-minute walk from the preserved Roman outdoor amphitheater as well as the famous Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière.
Radisson Blu Hotel: Housed in one of the tallest buildings in Lyon, the Radisson Blu Hotel offers stunning panoramic views of the city from its position atop the iconic Tour Part-Dieu. The hotel features stylish, contemporary rooms and suites, designed with comfort and functionality in mind. Guests can enjoy amenities such as a fitness center, a refined restaurant serving French cuisine with a modern twist, and a chic bar with skyline views. Conveniently situated near one of Lyon’s two major train stations (specifically the one that connects with Paris) as well as Halles Paul Bocuse and one of the major shopping district, the Radisson Blu is an ideal choice for both leisure and business travelers looking for an easy stay.
