A Weekend Guide to Edinburgh, Scotland

Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital, offers a more intimate and easily navigable alternative to larger cities across Europe as well as the United Kingdom. Its compact size allows visitors to explore much of the city on foot, making it ideal for a weekend getaway.

With its blend of historic landmarks, cultural attractions, and natural beauty, Edinburgh provides a diverse experience without the crowds often found in bigger cities. Visiting during the offseason offers the added benefit of fewer tourists, allowing for a more relaxed exploration of the city's streets and sights.

Unlike the vastness of London, where getting from one place to another can take significant time, Edinburgh’s layout allows you to see a variety of attractions in a short period. The city seamlessly connects its medieval Old Town, filled with cobbled streets and iconic landmarks like Edinburgh Castle, with the Georgian elegance of the New Town. This makes it easy to experience both Edinburgh’s historic and modern aspects over a weekend.

And given how much there is to do, eat, and drink, it’s a great city to revisit again and again. (And it’s very, very dog friendly!)

Where to Go

Edinburgh Castle: Perched atop Castle Rock, Edinburgh Castle dominates the city's skyline and is one of Scotland's most iconic landmarks. The fortress has served as both a royal residence and a military stronghold throughout its history. Visitors can explore the Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny, and St. Margaret's Chapel, the oldest surviving building in the city. The castle also offers panoramic views over Edinburgh and plays a central role in the city's annual events, such as the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.

The Johnnie Walker Experience: This might sound kitschy, but as a drinks and travel writer, I can’t recommend it seriously enough. There are some other big alcohol brands with museums in their respective hometowns that fall flat, but this isn’t one of them. It’s spectacularly designed inside and out, a job well done. Located on Princes Street, the Johnnie Walker Experience is a state-of-the-art attraction dedicated to Scotland's world-renowned whisky heritage. Visitors can embark on immersive tours, learning about the history, craftsmanship, and flavors of Johnnie Walker through interactive displays and tastings. There’s even one section (where no cameras are allowed) with an actor (honestly of West End quality) monologuing while going over the history of Johnnie Walker, rolling down a conveyor belt through time. You really have to see it to understand. The multi-sensory experience is designed to appeal to both whisky aficionados and those new to the spirit, offering personalized journeys based on individual taste preferences. 

And much like the Guinness Factory in Dublin, the rooftop at Johnnie Walker Princes Street, housed in a former department store, offers the best views in Edinburgh with a very classy bar and restaurant at the top.

The Royal Mile: Stretching from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Royal Mile is a historic thoroughfare at the heart of the city's Old Town. Lined with centuries-old buildings, museums, shops, and cafés, the Royal Mile offers a glimpse into Edinburgh's rich cultural and architectural heritage. Highlights include St. Giles' Cathedral, the Real Mary King’s Close, and the Scottish Parliament building at its eastern end. (It’s also a great spot to go running here in the morning—so long as you’re good with hills and the occasional cobblestone block—as there are fewer tourists then, making it a good time to see the area and also get photos without many people in them.

Arthur's Seat: Arthur's Seat is an ancient volcano that forms the main peak of the hills in Holyrood Park, offering a natural escape within the city. The hike to the summit is popular for its sweeping views over Edinburgh and beyond, providing a unique perspective of the city’s skyline and the Firth of Forth. The surrounding parkland is also of archaeological and historical significance, with traces of ancient settlements scattered across the landscape.

The National Museum of Scotland: Located on Chambers Street, the National Museum of Scotland houses a vast collection of artifacts spanning natural history, world cultures, science, and Scottish history. Highlights include the Lewis Chessmen, ancient Egyptian relics, and exhibits on Scotland's industrial and cultural development. The museum’s interactive displays and diverse exhibitions make it a comprehensive introduction to the country's heritage, appealing to visitors of all ages.

The rooftop at Johnnie Walker Princes Street.

Where to Eat and Drink

Howies Waterloo Place: Situated at the foot of Calton Hill, Howies is a well-known Edinburgh restaurant that partners with local suppliers to craft flavorful menus showcasing traditional Scottish cuisine. Signature dishes include haggis with neeps and tatties, Cullen Skink, fresh seafood, and an array of other regional specialties.

KORA: Located in the Bruntsfield area, KORA offers a refined dining experience with a focus on seasonality and sustainability. The restaurant, led by renowned chef Tom Kitchin, presents a menu that highlights locally sourced Scottish ingredients, combining modern techniques with traditional flavors. Dishes are thoughtfully crafted to emphasize freshness and quality, making KORA a distinguished destination for those seeking an elevated culinary experience in Edinburgh.

Newsroom: Can’t resist this journalism-themed casual bar and restaurant with its punny drink names. Situated on Leith Street, The Newsroom offers a contemporary dining and bar experience in a vibrant setting. Known for its eclectic menu, the restaurant serves a mix of globally inspired dishes alongside modern takes on classic comfort food. With a lively atmosphere, craft cocktails, and a well-curated selection of beers, The Newsroom is a popular spot for casual dining, social gatherings, and after-work drinks in the heart of Edinburgh. (It’s also lovely to sit outside here in summer when the late sunsets hit.)

Where to Stay

Gleneagles Townhouse: Located in the heart of St. Andrew Square, Gleneagles Townhouse blends contemporary luxury with historic charm. It’s really as close as you get to turn of the century vibes but with modern comforts (like a completely renovated bathroom and flatscreen TVs and super comfy beds.) Housed in a building that once served as the British Linen Bank, this exclusive hotel offers elegantly designed rooms, a rooftop bar with panoramic views (and those stunning statues you see in the photos), and a wellness center in the basement featuring a state-of-the-art gym and treatment rooms. (It feels like a SoulCycle without actually being at one—in a good way.) You also don’t want to miss breakfast (or drinks or even dinner) in the main dining room, which is sumptuous for both the eyes and the stomach. With a focus on bespoke experiences, Gleneagles Townhouse caters to guests seeking refined hospitality in a central Edinburgh location, making it a distinctive destination within the city.

Edinburgh Grand: Ideal for business travelers or those in town for a long-term stay, the Edinburgh Grand offers an elegant collection of luxury serviced apartments in the former headquarters of the National Bank of Scotland on St. Andrew Square. Combining heritage architecture with modern amenities, each apartment features spacious interiors, fully equipped kitchens, and stylish furnishings. The hotel also boasts dining options, including the renowned Hawksmoor restaurant, and is conveniently located within walking distance of Edinburgh’s major attractions, making it ideal for long and short stays.

The Balmoral: This is THE old school luxury hotel of Edinburgh. (And if you see any celebs getting married in Edinburgh, the reception is most likely here.) Standing as an iconic landmark at the eastern end of Princes Street, The Balmoral is one of Edinburgh’s most prestigious hotels, combining classic elegance with modern luxury. Renowned for its clock tower and historic grandeur, the hotel offers spacious rooms and suites with sophisticated décor, fine dining at the Michelin-starred Number One restaurant, and a luxurious spa. Its prime location, adjacent to Waverley Station, provides easy access to the city’s main attractions, making it a top choice for travelers seeking refined accommodation in the heart of Edinburgh.

Moxy Edinburgh: Moxy Edinburgh brings a playful, energetic vibe to the city with its bold design and modern amenities. Located in the Fountainbridge area, this lifestyle hotel offers compact yet stylish rooms, a lively bar, and communal spaces designed for socializing or working. Its convenient location near Edinburgh’s key attractions and transport links, combined with its emphasis on affordability and a vibrant atmosphere, makes it an appealing option for travelers looking for a more casual, contemporary stay in the city.

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