A Weekend Guide to Paris
It sounds like a cliché to say Paris is one of my favorite cities, but really that statement doesn’t go far enough. It’s the city that feels most like home but I don’t actually live there. (Although I did live there several years back, and I visit frequently for personal and professional purposes throughout the year.) I’m also not very outwardly emotional as far as crying, but I get close to crying every time the plane takes off to go back to New York.
As I’m a frequent visitor, I’m frequently asked by friends and colleagues about some of my favorite spots in Paris. Here’s a guide below with some of my favorite places to visit, eat, drink, and stay in the City of Light. There are some entries at every price point, including some splurges. But you’d be surprised how cheap—and even free—many activities are. (For instance if you’re a journalist, you can show a work ID and you should be able to enter most museums for free.)
And the average cost of food and drink is also far lower than comparable rates in New York City or Los Angeles. You can get glasses of house wines for a few euros.
Or you can pop into a local Carrefour or Monoprix (two local grocery chains) for a bottle of wine, a baguette, and some cheese and have your own impromptu picnic in one of the parks below. (And these are just a small sampling. There are so many glorious parks throughout Paris, and you should be able to find one near any hotel.)
That said, be prepared for some significant upcharges if you find yourself lucky enough to get a table at Girafe, one of the trendiest spots in Paris but with a view of the Eiffel Tower that is unparalleled.
Iris Van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses Exhibition
Favorite museums
Fondation Cartier: A contemporary art museum that offers rotating exhibits featuring modern artists, often with a focus on avant-garde and experimental work. The architecture itself is a piece of art, surrounded by lush greenery.
Musée des Arts Décoratifs: Located in the western wing of the Louvre, this museum celebrates decorative arts, from furniture and textiles to fashion and jewelry. It’s a paradise for anyone interested in design history. Past temporary exhibits I’ve visited have been dedicated to famous fashion designers like Iris van Herpen and Elsa Schiaparelli as well as an exhibition dedicated to the cross section of fashion and sports over the last century ahead of the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.
Musée d'Art Moderne: Situated in the 16th arrondissement, this museum offers a wonderful collection of 20th-century art, including works by Picasso, Braque, and Delaunay. It’s a quieter alternative to the larger museums in Paris.
Fondation Louis Vuitton: This striking building designed by Frank Gehry is not only an architectural marvel but also houses contemporary art exhibitions. Nestled in the Bois de Boulogne, it’s perfect for a full afternoon of art and nature.
Palais Galliera/Musée de la Mode: A must-visit for fashion lovers, this museum offers rotating exhibitions on the history of fashion, showcasing everything from haute couture to street style. Past exhibitions I’ve visited have been dedicated to artist Frida Kahlo and Alber Elbaz, the former creative director of Lanvin.
La Galerie Dior: Located in the heart of Paris, this gallery is dedicated to the legacy of Christian Dior. It’s a beautifully curated space that takes you through the history of the iconic fashion house, where you start at the top and work your way down. Save time for a quick coffee at the cafe before departure.
La Galerie Dior
Favorite parks
Parc Montsouris: A beautiful English-style garden in the 14th arrondissement, perfect for a peaceful stroll or a quiet afternoon reading by the lake. It’s less crowded than the more central parks, offering a serene escape.
Parc Monceau: Located in the 8th arrondissement, this park is a favorite among locals for its picturesque landscape, dotted with statues, a small lake, and a classic French carousel. Ideal for a leisurely afternoon. (Note: dogs aren’t allowed to sit on the grass here but you can walk through the paved sections with your pups without problem.)
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont: One of the largest green spaces in Paris, this park offers dramatic cliffs, a suspension bridge, and a stunning view of the city from its highest point. It’s a bit off the beaten path, which makes it less touristy.
Bois de Boulogne: For New Yorkers, this is the Central Park of Paris. This vast park offers everything from serene lakes to beautiful gardens. (And home to the aforementioned Fondation LV.) It’s a perfect spot for a picnic or a boat ride on a sunny afternoon.
Where to eat and drink
Maison Aleph: A delightful fusion of Middle Eastern flavors with French pastry techniques. Their delicate, flavorful desserts are a must-try, especially the signature Baklava rolls. The first of several places on this list that can be defined as “great spot for a quick lunch or bite throughout the day”
Cojean: Also great for a quick bite, especially for breakfast or anyone in a rush, with multiple locations throughout Paris. This chain offers a range of salads, sandwiches, and fresh juices.
Wild & The Moon: A haven for health-conscious eaters, Wild & The Moon offers a menu full of organic, plant-based dishes and cold-pressed juices. With its eco-friendly ethos and vibrant flavors, it’s a perfect spot for a refreshing and nourishing meal, balancing out all those baguettes and croissants.
Judy: A charming café offering organic, health-conscious dishes. The menu is full of fresh, seasonal ingredients, making it a great spot for a light breakfast or lunch.
Café de Flore: A must for first time visitors and even for return visitors. Yes, it’s crowded, but it’s not actually a tourist trap. Even when crowded, you can get a table for one or two quite quickly here. In the mornings, you should be able to walk right up either for one for an espresso and one of the best croissants you’ll ever buy. (The french onion soup at lunch shouldn’t be missed either.) And on the Boulevard Saint-Germain, you’ll have a front row seat to some prime people watching.
La Banquette: A cozy spot ideal for a late afternoon or apéro hour. The ambiance is relaxed, making it a perfect place to unwind with a glass of wine and some small bites.
Le Mary Celeste: Known for its inventive cocktails and small plates, this trendy spot in the Marais is great for a casual drink or light dinner. The menu is always evolving, with a focus on fresh, local ingredients.
La Cerise Sur La Pizza: The best pizza in Paris, hands down. (As a New Yorker, I don’t make that acclaim lightly.) The Rue Froissart location offers a cozy atmosphere and pizzas that perfectly balance crispy crusts with delicious toppings.
L'Eclair de Génie: I first found this place on Instagram years ago, and the pastries live up to the promise in person. A must-visit for sweet lovers, this pâtisserie offers the best éclairs in Paris, with creative flavors and stunning presentation. It’s a feast for both the eyes and the palate.
Le Récamier: The entire menu consists of soufflés! It’s my absolute dream menu. Whether you prefer savory or sweet, there’s something here for every soufflé lover. And if the weather is nice, I’d suggest going early or trying to make a reservation to get a table in the garden outside, but there is indoor seating, too.
Les Botanistes: This charming neighborhood restaurant offers a delightful menu with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Reservations are a must, as the cozy atmosphere draws a loyal crowd.
The Moose: One of my favorite aspects of my time living in Paris was visiting different Anglophone bars because you really met a cross-section of people from around the world at these locations more than any other. There are several in the heart of Paris, and one of the old standbys that has survived the test of time is this Canadian bar, perfect for catching any sporting match or enjoying some hearty comfort food (i.e. poutine). The vibe is laid-back and friendly, making it a fun spot for an evening out.
Loulou: During the summer, you can feel like you’re in Paris and the Amalfi Coast at the same time at lunch here. Situated in the heart of the Jardin des Tuileries, Loulou offers a refined yet relaxed dining experience with a menu inspired by French and Italian cuisine. The stylish interior and beautiful terrace make it a perfect spot for a leisurely meal with stunning views of the Louvre with an Aperol Spritz in front of you. That said, you can also dine here in cooler temperatures thanks to an indoor dining room inside the Louvre.
Perruche: I have a thing for rooftop bars, which you’ll notice by the end of this list. Located on the rooftop of Printemps Haussmann, Perruche provides a breathtaking 360-degree view of Paris. The restaurant combines a laid-back ambiance with a menu full of fresh, Mediterranean-inspired dishes, making it a great choice for a sunny afternoon or a chic evening out.
Compagnie Vins Surnaturels Paris: A wine bar with a twist, offering an extensive selection of natural wines. The knowledgeable staff will help you find the perfect glass, whether you’re a connoisseur or a casual sipper. I’m partial to this place as I also love the locations in New York and London.
Cocktail hour at Bonnie
Bonnie: There are a lot of places that will claim they have the best views of Paris. And some of them I can vouch for having seen them myself. Perhaps there is no one best view of Paris, but Bonnie gives everyone a run for their money. Sitting on the top floor of the SO/ Paris hotel (see below), Bonnie is an uber chic, modern venue serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner—all delicious and all pricey, but you also come here for this stunning, unobstructed view given the building’s location at the edge of the 4th Arrondissement.
La Girafe: ith an unparalleled view of the Eiffel Tower, this trendy spot offers a dining experience that’s as much about the ambiance as it is about the food. Be prepared for a splurge, but it’s well worth it for the setting.
Gigi: This Italian-inspired restaurant combines chic décor with a lively atmosphere. Located near the Champs-Élysées, it’s a great spot for ladies and gents who lunch or a stylish night out. It’s also a place to see and be seen. For example, one time I went fo lunch, we were perusing the menu, and there was no price listed for the lobster. When we asked the server, it was €500. Moral of the story: Always ask before ordering! (And most of the servers here speak both French and English as it’s popular with tourists.)
Also, my favorite fancy hotel bars, great for an apéritif or digestif:
Le Bar Josephine at Hotel Lutetia
Where to stay
Hotel Duo: A stylish boutique hotel located in the Marais, offering sleek, modern rooms in the heart of one of Paris’s trendiest neighborhoods. It’s perfect for those who want to be in the center of the action. The rooms are small, as is typical for Paris, but they’re comfortable, clean, and up to date.
The Select Hotel Rive Gauche: A charming hotel located in the Latin Quarter, offering a blend of contemporary design and classic Parisian architecture. It’s close to many major attractions, making it a convenient base for exploring the city.
Hôtel Signature Saint-Germain-des-Prés: This family-run boutique hotel offers personalized service and beautifully designed rooms. Located in the chic Saint-Germain-des-Prés area, it’s ideal for those who want a mix of luxury and local charm. They also offer a daily happy hour for guests in the hotel lobby (which has a great selection of books about Paris on hand for guests to read) as well as breakfast included and snacks/coffee available for free throughout the day.
Hotel Parister: A modern, urban retreat in the 9th arrondissement, featuring stylish rooms and a well-appointed spa. It’s a great choice for travelers looking to relax after a day of sightseeing. There’s also an onsite bar that gets packed starting after work hours.
Brach Paris: A luxury hotel in the 16th arrondissement, combining uber modern design with a warm, inviting atmosphere. (Think abstract art on lacquered wood walls with plush bedding and shiny leather couches.) The rooftop terrace offers stunning views of the Eiffel Tower, making it a perfect spot for a romantic getaway. (Strangely there was no coffee maker in the room, but there were sex toys available for purchase in the minibar.)
SO/ Paris: A contemporary hotel with bold, vibrant décor, located in the 4th arrondissement. It offers a unique, artistic vibe and is close to many of the city’s main attractions.
Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris: A luxury hotel that blends contemporary art with classic Parisian elegance. Located near the Champs-Élysées, the Arc de Triomphe, and Parc Monceau, there are few hotels as conveniently located as this one. It’s also a hotel for art lovers with fine and contemporary art (paintings, sculptures, etc.) installed throughout the hotel as well as the guest rooms. There’s also a bookstore in lobby featuring Assouline-type coffee table books.
Shangri-La Paris: A former palace turned luxury hotel, offering breathtaking views of the Eiffel Tower from most guest rooms. The service is impeccable, and the ambiance exudes old-world charm with modern comforts. This is also the kind of hotel that celebrities stay at when they *don’t* want to be seen. You’ll also get the best Chinese food in Paris here—possibly all of Europe outside of the U.K.—at the hotel’s Shang Palace, now helmed by executive chef Tony Xu.
