A Weekend Guide to Catania and Taormina, Sicily
A weekend in Taormina and Catania is the perfect way to experience Sicily’s blend of scenic beauty, rich history, and incredible food. These two towns, just a short drive apart on the island’s east coast, each offer something unique.
Sicily is a large island with a diverse landscape, from sprawling vineyards to rugged coastlines, and trying to see it all in one trip can be overwhelming. To get the most out of your time, it’s best to focus on one region at a time. The area around Taormina and Catania, with its mix of historical sites, coastal views, and vibrant cities, is an excellent place to start.
Taormina, perched high above the Ionian Sea, feels like a postcard come to life. Its cobblestone streets, ancient Greek Theatre, and stunning views make it the ideal place to slow down and take in the atmosphere. From garden walks to leisurely meals at cafes with ocean views, the town’s relaxed charm is hard to beat.
Catania, in contrast, is full of energy. Nestled at the base of Mount Etna, it’s a lively city with a strong character. Start your day with a traditional granita and brioche, explore its bustling markets, and visit impressive landmarks like Piazza del Duomo and the Roman Amphitheatre. By evening, enjoy fresh seafood and dive into the vibrant nightlife.
While many people might first think of Sicily as the backdrop for The Godfather or more recently The White Lotus, this island is far more than its pop culture cameos. Still, for those who love hunting down filming locations, there are plenty of spots to explore, from rustic villages to iconic hotels. (Before you even ask, season 2 of The White Lotus was filmed at the Four Seasons here, but I did not visit this time. Maybe someday!)
But the real charm of Sicily lies in its everyday life—its markets, its street food, and its welcoming locals.
Where to Go
Vivera: You can’t come to Sicily and not go wine tasting. That said, there are just so many wineries to choose from, so it’s best to pick a specific town or area to stick close to. The town of Linguaglossa, about 30 minutes from Taormina and 45 minutes from Catania, is a good starting point. This one is actually walking distance from town (although you’ll want to stay in the car as the roads are tiny and the drivers are fast.)
Vivera is a family-owned winery that captures the essence of Sicilian terroir. With vineyards set against the backdrop of the volcano, Vivera produces organic wines that reflect the unique character of the region. The winery blends tradition with innovation, focusing on sustainability and respect for the land. Guests can tour the vineyard and taste a range of wines, from crisp whites to robust reds.
Cusumano Winery: Visiting Cusumano Winery in Sicily offers a chance to explore one of the island’s leading modern wine producers, known for blending contemporary techniques with deep respect for tradition. Nestled in the Sicilian countryside, Cusumano’s state-of-the-art facility provides a striking contrast to the ancient vineyards it cultivates.
Guests can tour the winery, gaining insight into the meticulous process behind their vibrant, expressive wines, crafted from both indigenous and international grape varieties. The tasting experience highlights their commitment to showcasing the diversity of Sicily’s terroir, with each sip offering a distinct sense of place. It’s a must-visit for wine enthusiasts looking to experience the innovative spirit of Sicilian winemaking.
Mount Etna: Despite being one of the most active volcanoes in the world, it’s actually quite popular with hikers and even skiers in the winter. Tour guides will tell you that because Mt. Etna is active, that means it’s actually releasing more steam, etc. frequently, not letting all that anger bottle up inside her. Thus, it’s a nice spot for an afternoon hike. Bundle up because the temperatures up here are far cooler than they are down by the coast. (You really drive through the forest to get here.) And if you’re going to take one of the steeper trails, bring a walking stick because the volcanic soil is quite soft and likes to move on its own.
Corso Umberto I (Taormina): Corso Umberto I is the main street that runs through the heart of Taormina, lined with a mix of high-end boutiques, local artisan shops, cafes, and historic landmarks. Stretching from Porta Messina to Porta Catania, this pedestrian-friendly road is perfect for a leisurely stroll in the evening, offering views of the sea on one side and glimpses of Mount Etna on the other. During the day—through sunset—it’s very crowded and can be overwhelming, so visit at your own risk during daylight hours.
Chiesa Badia di Sant’Agata (Catania): Saint Agatha is THE prominent saint in the history of Catania. There’s too much history to go into here—not just about here but also about the feast and annual procession dedicated to her. That said, the Basilica as well as smaller church across the street, just off the main piazza, are both named in her honr. Skip the Basilica and go to the smaller church, where there are few people trying to get to the belltower at the top. There are both stairs and an elevator, and you can get some of the best views of Catania as well as Mt. Etna.
Where to Eat and Drink
(Besides wine tasting…)
Caffe del Duomo (Catania): Normally the best spot for a café, a pastry or anything is not right in the middle of the main square where all the tourists are loitering. These days, those places always seem overpriced and underwhelming. But this spot is the opposite, with plenty of outdoor seating under umbrellas, tables turn often, and you will find the best almond granita and brioche here as well as a full bar and dessert counter inside.
Cascia (Catania): You can stay here from day to night as this café transitions from late morning espresso (where you can actually sit down when the weather is nice outside) to lunch to dinner to late night. Expect all the basics, like eggplant parmesan and bufalo mozzarella, but also seafood specials. If you want both the vibes and the flavor of an Aperol Spritz, this is the place.
Friggitoria Popolare (Catania): This casual spot does modern takes on traditional street food. Think vegan fried pizzas. Located near the fish market (but far enough away that you can no longer smell it), this daytime spot serves up a variety of vegetarian and vegan options like crispy arancini, panelle, and fried vegetables, all at affordable prices. The no-frills atmosphere adds to its charm, with locals and visitors lining up for generous portions. Grab a snack on the go or settle in at one of the outdoor tables to experience a slice of Catania’s vibrant food scene.
A Putia Dell’Ostello (Catania): Ever want to go to a cave dating back to an earthquake under a bar? This is the place for you. But the upstairs is good too, with a chill outdoor patio (partially covered!) serving basic cocktails and food. (They also claim to serve “probably” the world’s best sushi, but I can’t vouch for that one.)
Wunderbar (Taormina): The main pedestrian street (which lets the occasional Fiat through) is filled to the brim with cafés, bars, and restaurants. (Not to mention boutiques, from knick-knack shops to Dior—seriously.) In the middle of this drag is the main plaza, where you can get all the photos of the coastline. Off to the southwest corner, tucked away to the side of this plaza is this adorably chic bar and restaurant, with indoor and outdoor seating, making it prime real estate for people watching. (Not to mention dog watching—a lot of locals walk their dogs through here in the cooler evening hours.)
Le Bar Louis Vuitton Taormina: Yes, this isn’t exactly a local, family-owned spot, but Taormina is not much different from the Italian or French Rivieras. It caters primarily to tourists, so just roll with this. Located in the iconic Louis Vuitton store on Corso Umberto I, this stylish bar provides a refined setting where guests can enjoy expertly crafted cocktails while surrounded by the brand’s signature elegance. With its sleek design, intimate atmosphere, and prime location, Le Bar is perfect for a quiet moment amid the bustle of Taormina.
Lido Villeggiatura at the Belmond Taormina: Even if you’re not staying at the Belmond, you should definitely visit the Beach Bar here. Far from the main strip of Taormina on a calmer part of the coastline with a small marina, the Beach Bar is a lovely spot for a late afternoon drink or a moonlit dinner. (The pizzas, especially, are to die for, and the crusts are so good you probably won’t want to share.)
Where to Stay
Sant’Andrea, A Belmond Hotel: Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea in Taormina feels like a private seaside retreat, tucked away on the shores of the sparkling Bay of Mazzarò. Known for its world-class hospitality, Belmond has carefully maintained this historic villa, preserving its authentic charm while adding modern touches. The lush gardens, elegant rooms, and direct beach access immerse guests in the local culture, offering a true sense of place. You can relax by the infinity pool or enjoy fresh seafood at the beachfront restaurant, all while experiencing the thoughtful care Belmond properties are famous for around the world. A complimentary shuttle takes you into Taormina, but the tranquil setting of the hotel makes it hard to leave.
Villa Neri: This luxury boutique hotel nestled between Mount Etna and the Sicilian coast approximately 30 minutes from Taormina, offers a serene escape, surrounded by olive groves and vineyards, blending contemporary elegance with traditional Sicilian charm. Also a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collection, the resort provides modern comforts while maintaining a connection to the island's heritage. The hotel’s facilities include a tranquil outdoor pool and the Petra Spa with saunas, plunge pools, and treatments using locally sourced natural ingredients.
And dining at Villa Neri showcases the best of Sicilian cuisine. La Dodici Fontane, the hotel’s restaurant, offers a sensory journey through the island's culinary traditions, featuring dishes crafted from the finest local produce. Guests can enjoy alfresco dining in the warmer months, with views of the olive groves and the scent of herbs in the air, or dine indoors with vistas of Mount Etna. The breakfast room serves a fresh buffet each morning, featuring house-made pastries and local ingredients, with the option to dine in the garden during summer. Note that this hotel is seasonal and welcomes guests from April to November.